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Water Street Bistro in downtown Petaluma is a great place to take visitors

from France.

“Ooh-la-la,” they’ll remark, “we did not know Americans eat le dejeuner

this way.”

If leisurely French lunches aren’t on your schedule, Water Street Bistro

hosts dinners once a month that are among the most sought-after seats in Wine

Country. Dinners follow the seasons. Although it’s rare when a specific dish

appears a second time, themes are repeated year after year.

“There goes the last of the tomatoes,” chef and owner Stephanie Rastetter

says as she prepares September’s Farewell to Summer. Adios eggplant. Good-bye,

gypsy peppers. Happy trails, zucchini.

October’s dinner celebrates harvest and in early November, it’s a Mexican

fiesta honoring El Dias des los Muertos. Dinners begin at 7 and last about

three hours, with eight courses, each paired with a special wine. The price is

$75.

Rastetter worked side by side with Daniel Patterson at the beloved

Babette’s in Sonoma, which closed in early 1999. Fans of Babette’s will

recognize her delicate touch in Water Street’s lusty yet focused cuisine;

they’ll also be thrilled to see Babette’s bartender, Sid Nappi, waiting tables

at the monthly fetes.

Rastetter takes reservations for the next dinner beginning at 7:30 a.m. on

the Wednesday following the last dinner. She set the time because regulars,

who know she arrives at her restaurant around 4:30 a.m., begin calling at five

in the morning. Capacity is just 30 guests and seats sell out within a day or

two. But there are always cancellations, so ask to get on the waiting list.

Water Street Bistro, 100 Petaluma Blvd. N., Suite 106, Petaluma,

707-763-9563. Open daily for breakfast and lunch.

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